Lisbon in a long weekend

Meridian Air flies to Lisbon twice a day from Terminal 1. The morning flight, MA 204, leaves at 10:05 and lands at 12:50 local time, so you can be eating lunch by the river the same afternoon. Lisbon is on the same time as the UK all year.

From Lisbon airport, the metro reaches the city centre in about 25 minutes with one change. A taxi takes around 20 minutes outside rush hour. Buy a rechargeable travel card at the metro station. It works on the metro, buses, trams and the city's lifts and funiculars.

Lisbon eats late. Lunch runs from about 13:00 to 15:00 and few people sit down to dinner before 20:00.

• Custard tarts. Eat them warm, with cinnamon and a short, strong coffee. Every neighbourhood bakery makes its own, and most are as good as the famous ones.
• Grilled sardines. Best from June to September, cooked outside on charcoal and served on bread. Out of season, try grilled sea bream or octopus instead.
• Pork sandwiches. Thin slices of pork marinated in garlic and wine, in a soft roll. A cheap, quick lunch at any counter café.
• Tascas. Small, family-run restaurants with a handwritten menu and a dish of the day. Expect to pay around €12 to €15 for a main course and a glass of wine.

The bread, olives and cheese put on your table when you sit down are not free. If you do not want them, say so and they will be taken away.

• The tram. The old yellow tram that winds through Alfama and Graça is worth the queue. Get on at the first stop, early in the morning, to get a seat.
• The viewpoints. Lisbon is built on seven hills, and each one has a viewpoint, called a miradouro. Climb to the castle walls for the widest view, or to Graça at sunset.
• Belém. Take the tram or a train west along the river to see the monastery, the riverside tower and the monument to the explorers. Allow half a day.
• Alfama. The oldest district, a maze of stairs and alleys below the castle. Go without a plan and let yourself get lost.